Containporary

Curator/EXHIBITOR Maksut Vezgishi, Pavilion Of The Republic Of Kosovo. Earth is Home / The role of urbanization is to create sustainable environments that bond humans with Nature and it is part of planetary biodiversity. Hence, this is the noblest mission of architecture. Global urbanization is in expansion: population growth, constructions of megastructures (housing, economy, communications, etc.). The process involves countries and societies where every decision—making has a global impact, thus lack of sustainable planning places Earth at risk. The most acute issue is the global warming crisis. We lack the awareness and coordinated actions in order to avoid the effects of climate disaster. Today we learned that no human action can be viewed as an individual anymore.

SLEPPER

SLEEPER is a project that draws on the futurist brutalism that prevailed in Kosovo’s socialist period. The lines in the garments are found in two structures that were signifi- cant to this collection, Boro Ramiz (The Palace of Youth and Culture) and the Monu- ment to Fallen Miners in Northern Kosovo. The lines highlight and reinforce the striking forms of these structures, applied through the same logic into textile patterns. The shapes of these monuments are referenced in the vivid triangles onto silhouettes, bring- ing forward the architectural and monumental grandiosity while staying true to the mini- mal yet not necessarily monotonic vibe.

As monolithic structures these buildings have moulded the bold and concise forms of the garments. SLEEPER also draws inspiration from “xhubleta”, a black, heavy woolen, ribbed skirt that was traditionally worn in the Albanian highlands. Stripping out, the lines and ribbings of the skirt, placed on different areas of the body in order to exaggerate sleeves and waistlines. Combining this traditional dress with the principles of brutalism has produced a fusion that is simultaneously delicate and bold and in both cases lighter and easier to manouvre.

The aim has been to marry the diverse and clashing aesthetic influences of Kosovo in order to present something uniquely universal.

The concept for the texture applied is a compositional mix made of “Lines” that envision the ‘70s socialist architecture scattered all around Kosovo, “xhubleta” a traditional gar- ment, and draping curtain details, adding fluidity and balance to the rather rigid monu- mental sculpted looks.

Technically, the intention was to translate into fabric the “plisse” through “pintuck” technique that does not allow for the lines to open when worn and that can be used hor- izontally, perpendicularly, and even take ventricular forms, if applied in different fabric directions, cuts and patterns.

Fabrics compositions used: Recycled viscose and Tencel